The Fitting Experiment – Hourglass Dress

The Fitting Experiment

Episode 2- The Hourglass Dress

Background: I am hanging out with some new bloggers friends and we are calling our adventure, The Fitting Experiment. Our goal is to test out patterns that are drafted with a large size range to determine if the pattern has a great fit across the board. We are looking at comparing the fit across the size chart, construction techniques and directions, included options, and anything else the bloggers want to chat about. After this episode, we are adding more friends and not all of them are actual bloggers. Some use other platforms of social media and some make videos. We are mixing things up and expanding our game!

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The Fitting Experiment is back from quarantine and ready to share our latest project. This is the Hourglass Dress from Made by Runi. Yup, You read that right… DRESS! Psst: I know I am wearing a shirt! I made it into a shirt length because my closet is stuffed to the max with dresses. 🙂 Let’s start with the details of the pattern.

The pattern includes sizes 34-58 (European sizes).
Options included are: slim fit or flared skirt

Hourglass silhouette or solid front and back bodices.

Colorblock shoulder detailing

Two neckline options

Three sleeve lengths

I went with the flared fit, lower neckline, solid bodices and colorblocked short sleeves.

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Adjustments: I am just outside of the waist measurement for this pattern, but I straightened out the hourglass shape of the pattern (since I don’t have one) and blended from the bust to the hip and now it fits wonderfully. I also did a full bust adjustment and a bicep adjustment for this pattern. These are both adjustments I make on nearly all patterns I wear. This pattern called for binding the neckline, but I made bands. I am honestly terrible at binding, it looks like rubbish always. So I measured the opening, did the match, banded the neck. 🙂 I hemmed the sleeves and bottom.

New to me- I had to add seam allowances to the pattern. Apparently, this is a normal thing with European patterns…I had no idea. While this did take a little bit of extra time, it allowed me to pick the SA I wanted to use. The pattern pages also needed to be trimmed before assembling. So this pattern required a good bit of prep work before I could get down to sewing. Another thing that was a bit odd to me, the directions for assembling are on the website instead of with the pattern. While all these things are typical for the companies I usually sew, it wasn’t a deal breaker for me to sew. I only wish the size range included more sizes so I wouldn’t have to adjust so many things to get a great fit.

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Overall, I am happy with the fit after adjustments and will likely make the colorblocked version as well. This is a comfy top and I am wearing it to work today. I like that this top has a few different options to change up the look of it. This one will get a lot of use this summer!

If you would like to check out this, and other patterns from Runi, here is the link.

My fabric is from The Material Girls.

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A special thank you to Made by Runi for sponsoring The Fitting Experiment makers with patterns so that we can share our thoughts with you.

Please check out the other makers:

 

Camilla – My Dear Friend

Last week, 5 out of 4 hosted a Sew Along on their website/Facebook group/Youtube Channel for the Camilla Top. I usually don’t get super amped up about Sew Alongs because I don’t like to drag a project out for days. However, if I love the project as much as I love Camilla…Game On!

Camilla 5x top (4)

I have made several Camilla tops and you can view them by clicking the link. Camilla is a fairly quick sew especially when you have made it  few times! Give it a try!!

Let’s talk about fabric. I want to start by saying I am 100% in love with the feel of this fabric! Hello cool drapy goodness…I need you in my life! This fabric is Cameron ITY and it is from Stitchin’ Pretties. I love ITY. This one was easy to sew, cool to the touch, and has the best drape EVER! The Camilla top really needs a fabric with amazing drape to make the best of the front cowl neckline.

Camilla 5x top (1)

I just ordered another ITY print from Stitchin’ Pretties. Don’t forget that during this whole Covid Crisis, Stitchin’ Pretties is offering to throw in an extra 1 yard of fabric for each 2 yard cut you order! Psst… for the record, a medium box will hold 12 yards…. that may or may not  be just what I ordered. I should have my fabric in hand by Saturday! Laura is a shipping ninja! #SupportSmallBusiness

Camilla 5x top (3)

The Camilla pattern

OPTIONS INCLUDE:

  • Sleeveless, Short, Elbow, 3/4, Long, and Extra Long Sleeves;
  • Shirt, Tunic, A-line Dress, and Swing Dress;
  • Maternity option;
  • Band option for each sleeve length, including thumbhole cuffs;
  • Hem Band Option;
  • Optional Pockets for Swing Dress; and
  • Optional ruched sides of bodice

This time I decided to do a straight 5x to have a little more room through the bust area. Since this is an older 5oo4 pattern, it doesn’t include the FBA which is now included with their patterns. I also graded out to the A-line dress lines, but cut it at a tunic length. This allowed me to have a little more room overall. My sleeves are elbow length.

Camilla 5x top (2)Are you ready to start shopping now?

Here is the Cameron Fabric.  Don’t forget, order 2 yards, Laura will throw in a bonus yard of her choice!

Here is the Camilla Pattern.

You can follow all of my sewing adventures through the links below!

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This blog contains affiliate links.

Catalina Dress – Phat Quarters

Phat Quarters is working its way into adult patterns and out of the gate they were size inclusive through a 66 inch hip. I love this so much! The most recent pattern is called Catalina! Catalina is a lovely Raglan pattern that comes with various length options and a variety of sleeves and collar heights. I sewed up the dress length with the elbow bishop sleeves and a slouchy collar. I really adore the sleeves and this fabric makes them feel super lux.
PQ Catalina 4xD-5x (8)
The Catalina comes with two bust options – B and D sewing cups. This is like the Full Bust Adjustment included option that several other designers have. The pattern is drafted with a little extra room depending on which sewing cup you choose.  I really love that both options are included as it means I don’t have to do my own full bust adjustment. I did adjust for my larger than life biceps though! The Bishop sleeves have a lot of ease built into them, but I still adjusted so they had the proper amount of fullness. I LOVE them! I mean, I LOVE THEM! I want these sleeves on everything! You can choose Bishop sleeves for the elbow or long sleeve lengths.
PQ Catalina 4xD-5x (3)
I styled my long dress in two ways to show you just how versatile this pattern is. You can wear it as a dress or belted and pulled out for a great tunic! I love when I am able to style garments in different ways to expand their use. I really adore this over jeans with sandals. I am so ready for warmer days to arrive.
PQ Catalina 4xD-5x (6)
Let’s talk about this amazing fabric! Roxy!!!  I feel like only super foxy folks should wear fabric called Roxy, so I have been saving this fabric for something special! This fabric is from Stitchin’ Pretties! Laura is still packing and shipping at warp speed, so keep her busy during the madness that is our world right now! She will continue to do her “Buy 2 yards and I will send you a surprise coordinate”sale, until things settle down!
PQ Catalina 4xD-5x (2)
Please pay attention to the sizes at check out. This link has the higher size range. There is a separate pattern for the lower end, bundles, and kiddo options. 🙂 This way you only buy what you need! Shop soon while the new release sale pricing is in effect! 
PQ Catalina 4xD-5x (7)

Jessica @ 5oo4 has a Birthday and saving you some cash!

Half Price SALE!!! 

50% off of everything!!! 

except the Candy Pants

Here is a little collage of some of my 5oo4 makes in the last year.

5oo4 is without a doubt my most used patterns! You will not be disappointed!

Here is a link for you to save!

Love Notions – Tessa Dress

Love Notions has tons of great patterns. They are currently increasing the size range of some of their older patterns, but the Tessa Dress in still in the smaller size range. Lucky for Momma Mia, she fits on that chart! I decided to make this dress, because I had these fantastic prints and wanted to make a color block dress.
LV Tessa Xl-3X-Xl (3)
Let’s start with the fabric! These are my strike off prints from Stitchin’ Pretties. They came with a lovely hand written note saying they would love to become a dress. 🙂 Sneaky hints, yanno. So I decided I would see if I could fill that request. At first, I though I would make a Willow Cross front dress, but was a wee bit nervous because these two fabrics are a notably different weight which made me a bit nervous. I thought I would do one half of the bodice in each color, but talked myself out of it. I decided Momma Mia would get a new dress. I ended up choosing the Tessa because I loved that it was already perfect for some colorblocking. 
LV Tessa Xl-3X-Xl (1)
I knew I would put the heavier weighted fabric at the top and use the rest for the body. That was 100% my plan until I forgot to cut the body as a mirrored pair. Ugg. I could have screamed or cried!! I have talked several times on my blog about how Momma Mia doesn’t like crazy prints. I knew color blocking the back of the dress was going to be a risk, but you can’t uncut fabric!  Here we go! Snip Snip, Snip! I have a new back dress panel! This dress actually sewed  quickly, as it is just typical sewing, no fancy techniques even though it looks awesome!
LV Tessa Xl-3X-Xl (2)
So these trendy prints are from Stitchin’ Pretties. I love love love the quality of the fabric I get there. Laura ships within a day and offers great pricing with exceptional customer service. There is almost always great deals to be found in the clearance tab as well. Today I used Jane and Martha. Jane is the brown and blue striped fabric. It is a poly lycra blend which means it has great recovery. Martha is the name of the dots!! This print is a mid weight ITY and sewed up nicely. I love this print because “Who doesn’t love dots??” You can shop here.
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Let’s talk more about Tessa. This is a knit sheath dress with loads of options. You can choose from 2 necklines, scoop and boat neck. This is the scoop. There are 5 sleeve length options including this one, which is 3/4. There are two hem length options as well. I choose the long, but there is a knee length dress option too! The back seam allows for some contouring (or colorblocking.) You can also mash the Tessa with the Sybil skirt collection for even more options!

HOC #Breakallthedamrules Week 2

Blogger Collab BLACK

First off, Congrats to Laurie Roberts! She was the winner of the $20 credit to Stitchin’ Pretties and has already contacted me. Thank you again, Stitchin’ Pretties for donating our first prize!

WEEK TWO

$25 Store Credit to Ellie and Mac! 

Ellie and Mac

You will find the raffle at the bottom of this post, but first, enjoy my third post from the #breakallthedamrules series! Are you joining in? What have you made??

5oo4 gloria and rp circle cardigan (2)

How fun is this combo? This is one of those outfits where my mom said, “It looks ok, for you.” 🙂 So first off, this shirt! This gorgeous peplum is my absolute fabric pattern when I make it in Liverpool! I love the structured look of it. This Liverpool print is from Stitchin’ Pretties! There big sale is still going on for about one more week. I have made several other Gloria Tops and you can see them here.

This is Gloria from 5oo4. You can pick up the pattern here! 

This is loaded with options!

  • Regular Bodice and 1″ FBA Bodice pieces.
  • Peplum, Short or Long Skater Skirt Lengths
  • Peplum, Short or Long Hi Lo Skirt Lengths (with instructions on how to combine for a more dramatic Hi Lo effect)
  • Traditional Sleeve with 5 Lengths: Sleeveless, Short, Elbow, 3/4 and Long
  • Split Sleeve with 4 Lengths: Short, Elbow, 3/4 and Long
  • 2 Neckline Options: High or Low Scoop
  • Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial section
  • Instructions on making the Gloria skirts without the bodice or adding a Circle Skirt to the Gloria bodice

5oo4 gloria and rp circle cardigan (3)

This amazing cardigan is the Ladies Circle Cardi from Rebecca Page. Here is the link. First off, don’t let the looks of this pattern laid out on paper freak you out when you see it. It looks a little weird, but it works out. Because I sew in the largest size offered, I wasn’t able to cut my pattern on the fold. If you look super close, you can see I have a seam down the back. I worked hard to match it up! Anyhow, I love this. I actually wore it twice in the last couple days. This fabric is a Hacci from Fabric Mart. I picked it up months ago at a super discount price! I have made the short length, hemmed, and 3/4 sleeves. Here are all the pattern options:

  • 2 length options (short or long),
  • 3 hem options (plain, band or ruffle)
  • 3 sleeve options (sleeveless, ¾ and full length).

5oo4 gloria and rp circle cardigan

So let’s talk about why the prints work:

They are both super fun prints. Even though the both have crazy zig-zag stripes they are just different enough to stand apart. The common color between them, Black, helps pull them together. Imagine if the blue and black remained the same color, but the cardigan changes to white and green. This would give it a totally different look and throws off the color balance. Three’s company, Four’s a crowd. 🙂

So give it a try folks!

Don’t forget to to share your makes on Facebook and Instagram using the hashtag #Breakallthedamnrules

 

a Rafflecopter giveaway

A huge thank you for those who are following my blog, Instagram, and my Facebook! If you haven’t done so yet, here are some links!

  • You can follow my blog by clicking the Follow button on the right side of my blog.
  • You can follow me on Instagram by clicking here.
  • You can follow me on Facebook by clicking here.

An even bigger thank you to those who are  supporting me by buying patterns using my affiliate links! There is a good deal of expense in fabric, paper, ink and tape for tests and time in blogging. I get so excited each time I get an email saying someone got the pattern!

This blog post contains Affiliate Links. This means that when you make a purchase from one of my  affiliate links, I receive a small commission. That helps me to buy more fabric to show you new and upcoming patterns. 🙂 So thank you!!

 

 

Molly PJ’s

5oo4 Molly 4x-5x (10)

Sorry guys!! I have been MIA for awhile. I have missed sewing and I have really missed writing and sharing with all of you. I have about 6 items I need to share, but I am starting with the Molly PJ’s! Two reasons- The pattern is on sale today and the fabric is on sale too!

5oo4 Molly 4x-5x (12)

The thing is, Molly is the women’s version, but there is also patterns for Men and kiddos. Finally, the entire family gets to match! I even made a doggy sweater! Sadly, there isn’t a pattern for the pups.

So Momma Mia got roped into another photo session with me. She loves her PJs though and we look awesome! Tasha, Chico, and Star aren’t too bad either. 5oo4 Molly 4x-5x (1)

I graded between a 4x and 5x for my bodice and used 4x for the bottoms. For my top, I added 3 inches to the length because I can’t stand shirts that end above my belly. I used the bodice with the FBA included in the pattern. I added 1 inch to the bicep using my favorite bicep adjustment technique. You can view my video here.  I made a muslin to fit test my bottoms. I used a DBP for them as well. It is important to test fit new garments. When you do this, you should use fabric with a similar stretch. I did a 4x with a belly adjustment, but it wasn’t needed since DBP is pretty stretchy. The bottoms were a little more roomy than I wanted so for these photos I am wearing a straight 4x no adjustments. I used the elastic waistband since DBP doesn’t have strong enough recovery for the yoga band which was my other option. I removed several inches from the inseam as my inseam measures 27.5 inches.

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I made my mom the same options in an XL graded to a XXL. She has the FBA bodice on which saved me the trouble of doing that adjustment. Her pants are size medium. I added 1.5 inches to her top length and removed several inches from her inseam. We both are wearing a short sleeve top with the pants for our bottoms. I made an elastic waistband for her as well.

Other options you can use: Long or Short Sleeve (and a separate FBA Bodice piece!), Shorts or Pants, Cuffs, Elastic or Knit Waistband (AND and optional Bum Panel)

Even though this shirt is labeled as PJ’s, I wanted you see that you can clearly wear this shirt out and about. I got tricked into placing a few Christmas bulbs on the front bushes as I was having my pictures taken.

 

OK, let’s talk about this fabric now!! Holy Puppy Dogs!! How cute it this print? I love the softness of DBP and the print is adorable. I will not admit to buy 8 yards of this print, and you can’t make me! Stitchin Pretties has a sale happening if you check it out now!!! Don’t forget Stitchin’ Pretties ships within 24 hours during the week!

Here is the link to the Puppy Dog print.

Molly_4xl_5xl

 

Here is the link to the Molly Pattern.

  • You can follow my blog by clicking the Follow button on the right side of my blog.
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This blog post contains Affiliate Links. This means that when you make a purchase from one of my  affiliate links, I receive a small commission. That helps me to buy more fabric to show you new and upcoming patterns. So thank you!!

Malala Dress and Free Leggings

My first sweater of the season and it is Malala…It is kinda like Oh-la-la!

DIBY Malala 30 1 (6)

The Malala comes in 5 different lengths which is kinda amazing! I made the dress length because, well, why not? It it so lovely! Other length options are…

Shirt and Banded Shirt

Tunic and Banded Tunic

and the DRESS!

DIBY Malala 30 1 (9)

Of course, DIBY also gave you sleeve options. I used the elbow length.

Elbow // 3/4 Sleeve // Long Sleeve // Cuffed Long Sleeve

The fun feature of this top/dress is the pleated collar! It forms a lovely V neck and is accessorized with buttons. Don’t panic, Jessica made a video to walk you through the process of assembling it. The pattern lays out placement for 2 buttons, but I had one very large, very lovely Mother of Pearl button to use. My button collection is a lot like your grandma’s button jar. 10,000 buttons no matches! I love it!

Fabric Details:

The Softest French Terry ever and I got it from Sew Blessed! Rosa has been killing it at the fabric market lately! I am crossing my fingers I have enough left to make a cute tank out of.

DIBY Malala 30 1 (4)

Review:

Lovely design, easy sew, step by step video for neck band, length options, sizes up to Plus 36. As always DIBY provides a wonderful pattern and grading directions to help you get a perfect fit.

Pattern links:

Women’s pattern here: Malala

The pattern is currently on sale until Monday for $7.99. While you are over at DIBY pick up the free leggings pattern.

Free Leggings: Anything but Basic Leggings

A little bird mentioned there may be some add-ons coming to give you even more options!!

  • You can follow my blog by clicking the Follow button on the right side of my blog.
  • You can follow me on Instagram by clicking here.
  • You can follow me on Facebook by clicking here.

This blog post contains Affiliate Links. This means that when you make a purchase from one of my  affiliate links, I receive a small commission. That helps me to buy more fabric to show you new and upcoming patterns. 🙂 So thank you!!

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