Nancy Raglan

The Nancy Raglan from 5oo4 isn’t a new pattern, but it is a great one. I made Momma Mia one for the #Breakallthedamnrules tour, but didn’t get it worked into the month that was jam packed with great makes! The readers of my blog know that Momma Mia doesn’t mix prints and Momma Mia doesn’t do wild color or prints. (Insert Side Eye) Well Momma Mia, You shouldn’t have neon blue tights in your dresser drawer. (Insert Evil Eye)

This is the first Raglan I have made for Momma Mia, it may actually be the only one in her closet. I can say she loved it! I made her an A-Line Dress with elbow length sleeves. Elbow sleeves aren’t an actual option with this pattern so I just shortened the ¾ sleeves a few inches to get to her favorite length. That is the beauty of sewing. You make the pattern fit your needs! I also made this pattern with a cowl neck.

Cowl necks are made to snuggle into.

My favorite things about 5 out of 4 patterns are all the options. Here is a run down of all the great things that you can choose from on the Nancy Raglan.

• 5 bodice styles: Shirt, Tunic, A-line Dress, Swing Dress, Layered Dress (A-line with a loose fit overlay)
• 4 sleeve lengths: Short, 3/4, Long, Extra Long
• 4 neckline options: Crew, V-neck, Hood, Cowl
• 3 sleeve finishes: Hemmed, Cuffs, Thumbhole Cuffs
• Nursing access via invisible zippers and including a modesty panel.  The nursing access is available on all styles except the layered dress.
• Maternity with ruched sides.  The maternity option is included with all styles except the layered dress.
• Other options include: side vents on the tunic, pockets on the swing dress, and a banded bottom for the shirt and tunic.

Since these was made during #Breakallthedamnrules let’s talk about why it works!

Ummm Because I said so! LOL I like the bright pop of blue and how it plays with the bright pink and golds in the dress. I had her load up on the fun bracelets, to match the gold flowers in her dress. In a last minute executive designs, we realized my backpack was a perfect match for the pinks and blues! The geometric print of the bag is a nice match with the floral.

This is an XL graded to a XXL. I used the included FBA pattern piece for extra comfort. This floral print fabric is from Stitchin’ Pretties. It is called Millie, it is double brushed poly and I love it. That is why I have ordered it 3 times now! Millie is sold out, but there are dozens of other gorgeous fabrics at Stitchin’ Pretties! They also have a 1 day shipping turn around during the week. 🙂 I also used it to make this cardigan.

You can pick up this pattern along with anything from 5 out of 4 Patterns using this link.

Tutorial – How to Sew a Buttonhole

How to Sew a Buttonhole

If you have checked out my last blog post, you know that will you need to sew a few buttonholes to run your drawstring through on the Diane joggers. I am also currently in the planning phase of making a coat which has many buttonholes. 27 of them actually. I never really thought about the fact that maybe some people don’t know how to sew buttonholes until recently a friend said she had no idea. My machine sews automatic buttonholes with the push of a few buttons. If your machine doesn’t do this, it is ok. Just read your manual to see how you begin the process.

1. I always do a practice hole. I do this for two reasons, to remind myself which way the buttonhole will be stitched and to make sure I am happy with the final product.

 

2. Always use interfacing on the backside of the fabric where the buttonhole will be. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions and the proper setting on your iron.

 

3. Use your pattern to mark where the buttonhole placement is. I just poke a pin through my paper pattern at the start the buttonhole. I then use a marker to put a dot there. I use the marker mostly so I can see it.

 

4. If you are making a buttonhole for an actual button, measure the size of your button. My machine has a buttonhole ruler at the base of the machine for convenience. I held mine in place with a piece of tape so that I could take a picture.

5. My machine has several options for buttonhole style. Select your buttonholes final look and size. I am able to enter these options in my computer settings, but your machine may be different from mine. I have a 12 MM button in this example. I also chose a basic buttonhole since I am only making holes for a drawstring.

 

6. Hold your fabric straight and begin your stitching. Let the machine do the entire buttonhole without moving your fabric. When finished clip your threads.

 

7. To open your buttonholes, I place straight pins at the start and stop of the stitched buttonhole. Sometimes, I will place two at each end for extra security. I carefully use my seam ripper to poke between the two seam lines and then push it towards the pins at each of the ends. The pins will stop you from ripping through the buttonholes. Take the 5 seconds to do this, trust me. From experience, I know.

 

8. Ta-Da! You have now sewn a buttonhole! Some of my favorite garments I have made with buttonholes are listed below!

 

Roxanne Top

Anna Skirt

Diane Joggers

 

In process: The Taylor Trench
Show me what project you have been avoiding because you don’t want to sew a buttonhole.

 

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This blog post contains Affiliate Links. This means that when you make a purchase from one of my blog links, I receive a small commission. This doesn’t change the price for you, but is a little Thank You to me! It also helps me to buy more fabric to show you new and upcoming patterns. So thank you!!

Copy Cat: 12 Months, 1 Pattern, No Repeats

I am copying the heck out of my Sew Sista, Stephanie! Stephanie AKA The Sarcastic Sewist, is doing an exciting, year long blog series using the Diane Joggers from 5outof4 Patterns. She will be using the pattern options as well as hacking the original design to make 12 different pants to cover every possible need you have in your wardrobe. You can read her original post here. 

Her look was created with French Terry for the bottoms and DBP for the top. So I knew I wanted to do the same. I also knew that since I have never sewn this pattern before, I would want to make a muslin. A muslin (or a toile) is basically a mock up of a pattern made with the purpose of testing fit, determining personal adjustments, or even practicing unfamiliar techniques. You don’t use your high dollar fabrics or fabrics you need to make look good for a promo (my situation). At times, pants can be a bit tricky to get right even if an amazing designer has drafted them. My issue is that I have a large belly, no hips and no booty. When I take my hip measurement into account, I am put solidly into a size 5x with these pants. I am also lucky enough to know that The Diane Joggers, The Zen Pants, and The Molly PJ’s all have the same rise. This means that when measuring from the front waist band, between my legs, over my booty and up to the back waist band, all three of the patterns were created equal. Since I tested the Molly PJ set, I knew that making a 5X would have me swimming in fabric. With Molly, I tried making a 4x and grading my legs to a 3x. This worked well for me. My Molly fabric was DBP, so it has more stretch than French Terry. Because of this, I didn’t want to grade down to the 3x for my legs. I needed these pants to have their intended look, which is fitted, but not skin tight and I needed them to look good in public.

These Diane Joggers are a straight 4x. I only adjusted for height. These are my mock up pair and I only removed 3 inches from the length. When I tried them on it was clear that I needed to remove about another 2 inches so you can see the cuffs I worked so hard to put on. 🙂

I choose to add the pockets since this is a copy cat and Stephanie made pockets. I used a decorative stitch on my regular sewing machine to decorate the pockets. I used the wonder tape which was suggested in the pattern and in Stephanie’s blog post. It honestly did make this so easy. Here is photo of my decorative stitching. I like the loop to loop design with the polka dot print. You can also see that I topstitched along the top of the pocket and made the drawstring casing for the waistband.

I used this Gray French Terry fabric as my muslin. I picked this up months ago from Rosa at Sew Blessed. As always, her prices are low and her inventory changes almost weekly. I knew I wanted a solid top to wear with these pants so I wore my Paris top that I recently made to wear with my Arabella Skirt. The Coral solid looks lovely with the darker gray in my pants. I was lucky enough to have these flip flops which are nearly a perfect color match!

Since overall, I was happy with the fit of these pants, the only change I made was removing 2 more inches from the length. I am only 5’1. This will most likely always need to be done when I make pants.

These are my second pair of Dianes. I am obsessed with this fabric. It is French Terry from Stitchin’ Pretties. The print is called Hallie and here is the direct link to it. I love how it looks a little bit vintage and a whole lot of pretty.  My shirt here is Molly. Yes, Molly is a PJ top, but it is also a neatly fitting basic T-shirt which comes with a Full Bust Adjustment. I added several inches to my sleeves (remember Stephanie shortened hers) and did a Full Bicep Adjustment. I also added 3 inches to the shirt length so the world wouldn’t see my belly. My fabric is this Dark Hunter Green from Stitchin’ Pretties. My boots are covering my cuffs here, but I did shorten my length and they no longer pool around my ankles. I wanted to be able to wear this outfit to work, so I dressed it up a bit with boots and added some pretty jewelry my friend, Tonya, gave me.

These pants have a drawstring waist. I used a long narrow piece of my French Terry to make the tube. If you make tubes, Tube Turners will save you so much time and frustration. I was able to turn this narrow piece in about 30 seconds. I used an elastic bodkin to pull it through the waistband and that took about another 30 seconds. I double knotted the ends of my so they wouldn’t easily pull through my waistband. I am very happy to report that these pants stayed up all day! I was worried that they would slip down and fall down as the day drug on. NOPE, didn’t budge!! I am such a happy girl!

Let’s get you some pattern links. All of these patterns are sized up to 5x.

Diane Joggers

Molly Top and PJ Pants

Paris Party Top and Dress

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This blog post contains Affiliate Links. This means that when you make a purchase from one of my blog links, I receive a small commission. This doesn’t change the price for you, but is a little Thank You to me! It also helps me to buy more fabric to show you new and upcoming patterns. So thank you!!

Link Up, Guest Blogging, and a Sale

I have a lot to cram into this post! So consider this your warning.

Quiltville Link Up

Good Fortune is the latest mystery quilt from Bonnie Hunter and today begins the last link up! Momma Mia has finished her Good Fortune quilt top and has finally decided on a blue print for the backing. It will be sent to the long arm quilter soon. My quilt is still in 3,417,037 pieces, but they are beginning to get sewn into actual blocks. I am sew proud of Momma Mia for her hard work on her quilt top! I love this pattern!

Here is the link back to the Quiltville blog so you can see what else is happening in Bonnie’s world.

Guest Blogging

I was recently the guest blogger over at Ellie and Mac and I have shared another upcycle. This time I used lace curtains to make a top! I have also written a tutorial on dying fabric in your washing machine. Stop by the blog and let me know what you think. Here is the link.

New Release Pattern Sale

Red Apple Sewing has a new website which is much easier to navigate and now has some adorable graphics! This week the Apple Cider top is featured! Use code NEWRELEASE to get the discount.  It is a high lo tunic designed to use with your favorite knits. Don’t forget these are custom drafted patterns and will fit your exact measurements. Here is the link.

 

What are you working on today? It is cold and raining in Ohio this morning and I wish I could stay in and sew, but work will always call. 🙂

I have a few 5outof4 sharings coming up and a tutorial on sewing button holes as well. 🙂 Stay tuned!!

Coraline Cami & Primrose Panties

Bella Sunshine Designs is back!! Actually, they have always been here, Melissa was just busying growing a baby and building her dream home! This a double pattern release week and perfect for Valentine’s Day!! I know a lot of PDF companies right now are enticing us with super skimpy sexy patterns, but I am all about being comfortable 365 days a year! My requirements are fairly simple. I need my lady bits covered and everything in its place. So Bella Sunshine Designs gave us these great patterns.

The Coraline Cami and the Primrose Panty.

First, we will talk about the Coraline Cami. I don’t like camis. I rarely wear camis. I hate when my bra strap shows and my top stitching always looks messy. So I don’t make them. I said this exact same thing when the tester call came out, and Danielle said to me, “Practice makes perfect.” So I made a cami. I like the cami. I tucked my bra straps in my bra. My top stitching looks neat. Not too shabby…. if I say so myself.

I choose to make a tunic length top, which is perfect for running around the house in. I think it would also work well with a cardigan over leggings. I like when my clothes can be wore more than one way!

This pattern comes in sizes from Doll to Ladies 30 with an optional FBA. I love that BSD includes that and saves me the trouble of doing it myself.

This was my first time using fold over elastic and it honestly was much easier and neater to sew than bands. I have ordered several colors now and can’t wait to use them up!

Here is the link to the Coraline Cami.

Price
¯¯¯¯
•Ladies –
Release Sale Price $6.50
Regular Price $9.00

•Bundle (Ladies and Girls) –
Release Sale Price $11.50
Regular Price $15.00

In addition to the Coraline Cami, BSD released The Primrose Panty –

I have dreaded making panties for as long as I have been sewing. I think it mostly because I sew with a lot of synthetic fabrics and those aren’t the best for panties. I rarely have cotton lycra on hand and it is typically a little more expensive, but it is idea for sewing the guesset AKA the crotch area. I was able to score some great deals on CL from Ksews. Which is also where I picked up this pineapple print. The pineapple fabric is a jersey blend which is actually quiet comfy and has decent recovery. I have wore both the cami and the panties several times without issue.

I love that the Primrose comes with 2 rise options as well as 2 options for the cut at the leg. I choose the higher option for both of these. You can also choose to make bands instead of using the Fold Over Elastic, but I wanted my set to match so I went with the FOE. Another great thing about these panties are all the seams are hidden and they come together quickly and neatly!

Here is the link to the Primrose Panties

Price
¯¯¯¯
•Ladies –
Release Sale Price $6.50
Regular Price $9.00

•Bundle (Ladies and Girls) –
Release Sale Price $11.50
Regular Price $15.00

 

 

Paris Top and Arabella Maxi

So I have set a personal challenge for myself this year and I don’t think I have shared it with you guys. I have decided to challenge myself with sewing more difficult garments, with proper finishes, fancy techniques and making more than just knits. For anyone who makes clothes, this could be considered, “Stepping up my game!” I am actually getting prepared to make a coat. A real deal coat, with pockets, a hood, a yoke, and a lining! What am I thinking?? Anyhow before I get to that project, I decided I needed to make a few more Rebecca Page patterns.

So I sewed up the Arabella, a gorgeous voluminous skirt with side seam pockets, optional decorative sash, and an elastic back band for custom fit!

I choose to make the maxi length and I decided to this amazing vintage sheet for my skirt. This skirt comes with the options for above the knee, at the knee, midi as well as maxi lengths.

Do you need more options? How about these …

• 2 waistband heights (regular and tall)
• Optional sash
• Optional side seam pockets
• Suitable for woven or knit

I used the regular waistband height, added the sash and the pockets and used a woven fabric.

Ahh Top stitching looks lovely!

I knew I needed a top to wear with this skirt and wanted to make another Rebecca Page pattern. Stephanie, The Sarcastic Sewist suggested the Paris Party Top. I didn’t even realize it came with sleeves, but she assured me it did. She has all the intel! Because this top is more slim fitting than I am comfortable wearing and I am already at the top of the size chart, I knew I would have to do a bit of adjusting. So I began with a full bust adjustment. I added 1.5 inches to the bust. I smoothed out the hourglass look of the top because I am an Apple and don’t have an inward curve at my waist. I also added 3 inches to the length as this shirt is designed to me worn with the party dress. Then I adjusted the bicep. I added an inch to the bicep. This is a normal adjustment that I make when I am sewing, so it has really become second nature for me to do it.

Pocket’s are everything in a skirt.

Since I knew this would be a spring/summer outfit, I choose to go with this pretty orange color. It really is lovely, isn’t it? I picked this up from Sly Fox Fabrics. It is this coral Double Brushed Poly. I love sewing with DBP. I love how soft it feels and how nicely it drapes. Also Sly Fox Fabrics has flat rate shipping for $6.99, any size in the US.

Shirt options included in this pattern:

• scoop & boat neck options,
• crop or full length hem,
• short, ¾ or full length sleeves,

Skirt options included in the pattern

• large box pleats stitched down or open,
• high or regular waistband, and above knee,
• knee or tea length options
• center back zip closure with either buttons or snaps

If you are ready to sew either of these patterns up, Here are your links!

The Ladies Arabella

The Ladies Paris Party Dress and Top

As always you can purchase these patterns as singles or in Mommy and Me bundles. Also don’t forget, if you buy 2 patterns you save 10%.

• You can follow my blog by clicking the Follow button on the right side of my blog.
• You can follow me on Instagram by clicking here.
• You can follow me on Facebook by clicking here.

This blog post contains Affiliate Links. This means that when you make a purchase from one of my blog links, I receive a small commission. This doesn’t change the price for you, but is a little Thank You to me! It also helps me to buy more fabric to show you new and upcoming patterns. So thank you!!